Staten Island once was home to more than a dozen golf courses. The first was Harbor Hill, which opened in 1878 and was bounded by Brighton, Lafayette, and Prospect Avenue in New Brighton. Another popular course was the semi-private Fox Hills Golf Course in Clifton, which opened in 1900 and was Staten Island’s first 18-hole course.

Goats golf
The Fox Hills Golf Course members told police that the goats “turn out on the links like a regiment of soldiers and frighten the women players.” In some cases, they said, the goats would chase the balls and run away with them. (In 1902 some cows invaded the course, but that’s another story for another time.)

Staten Island – the Borough of Richmond – was also once home to hundreds of goats. New York State Governor Al Smith (1923-28) said the first time he visited the island, there were four goats to every human.

Fox Hills Golf Course Clubhouse, Staten Island
The Fox Hills Golf Course had a clubhouse near Vanderbilt Avenue, which was then considered the largest golf clubhouse in the country. The clubhouse stood about where Osgood and Fairway avenues meet today; the site is now occupied by residential duplexes. New York Public Library Collections

In 1900, members of the new Fox Hills Golf Club overlooking the Narrows began complaining to authorities about the goats that were running at large and interfering with their game. They claimed that the goats came from “Goatville,” a settlement near Rosebank inhabited primarily by Italian immigrants who held tightly to the old country customs and religion.

The Health Department in the Borough of Richmond went to war against the goats and their owners. The police also got involved, including Sergeant Shay of the Stapleton Police, who issued summonses to a number of goat owners for violating the sanitary code by keeping goats without a license.

Bell Street, Staten Island
Bell Street in Rosebank is so narrow it can barely accommodate one car lane. In the 1800s and early 1900s, this road was a farm trail in a settlement called “nanny goat hills.” Here, Italian immigrants grew vegetables, raised goats, and planted fig trees (which is why today you can still find fig trees in backyards from Rosebank to Tottenville.)

A Brief History of Fox Hills

In the 19th century, the area we now call Clifton and Concord was only a small rural hamlet with fishing ponds and wooded trails. Around 1860, Louis Henry Meyer, the former president of the Fort Wayne Railway company and one of the founders of the Staten Island Savings Bank, purchased 18 acres of land along present-day Fingerboard Road.

Fox Hills Golf Course
With the goats gone, golfers including Walter Clark and Isaac Mackie could enjoy a round of golf at Fox Hills in August 1905.

This acreage was part of a land grant dating back to 1685, and had been previously owned by Samuel H. Kelly (1685), George Brown (1691), Isaac Simonson (1749), Samuel Bowne (1852), and Manuel X Harmony (1859). Meyer invested $800,000 in Samuel Bowne’s manor home to make it one of the premier homes on Staten Island. In doing so, Meyer joined an exclusive group of men who established estates around the borough and called themselves the “Staten Island Barons.”

Two years after Meyer’s death in 1898, Fox Hills Golf Club was founded with 200 members. The 18-hole course, which had been laid out on the former Meyer estate by the Staten Island Cricket Club in 1899, boasted the finest links in the tri-state area, with numerous sand traps and a large pond creating challenging obstacles for even the best golfers. (The 13th hole was so difficult it was nicknamed Hell’s Kitchen.) Its grounds encompassed what is today Park Hill (and the Park Hill Apartments), Celebration, and Eibs Pond.

Fox Hills Manor, Staten Island
Louis Meyer named his estate Fox Hills Manor after his passion for fox hunting. In 1898, following his death, the 20-room estate served as a boardinghouse. The property then sat empty until Father Shealy purchased it in 1911 for a Jesuit retreat center, Mount Manresa. The villa was torn down in the 1960s, and in April 2014, the New York Province of the Society of Jesus sold the property to a developer of shopping malls and townhouse neighborhoods. That’s called progress.

The course was reportedly designed by Isaac Mackie, a native of Scotland and apprentice golf club maker who came to the U.S. to become a professional at Fox Hills. Mackie also competed on a national level in the U.S. Open from 1901 to 1921, and won the Eastern PGA Championship in 1908 at Fox Hills.

Isaac Mackie, U.S. Open
Fox Hills pro Isaac Mackie is pictured here (left) at the 1904 U.S. Open with Jack Hobens, Alex Ross, and George Thomson.

In 1918 during the first World War, Hoff General Hospital No. 41 was built on land adjacent to the Fox Hills Golf Course. Constructed in a record four months at a cost of $2 million, the facility was the largest army hospital in the world with a capacity for 3,000 patients.

The Fox Hills Base Hospital, as it became known, operated until 1922, when it was determined that the rundown hospital had become a firetrap. The facility closed on March 7, 1922, and the few remaining patients were transferred to Sea View Hospital.

Fox Hills Base Hospital
The Fox Hills Base Hospital, as it became known, featured three miles of interconnected covered wooden walkways with amenities like a barber shop, billiards room, general store, and 2,000-seat theater. It operated until 1922, when the last remaining patients were transferred to Sea View Hospital.

With the arrival of the Great Depression, the Fox Hills Golf Club was no longer sustainable. The club closed its doors in 1935. By that time, the goats were long gone. (Albeit, Staten Island was New York’s last stand for goats: In 1928, The New York Times reported that 130 Staten Island residents were still licensed to keep goats.)

During World War II, the U.S. Army reactivated the old Fox Hills property to serve as an army base, an Italian prisoners of war camp, and a trading post along Vanderbilt Avenue. When the war ended, the barracks became makeshift homes for veterans who faced a severe housing shortage in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The facility shut down completely in the early 1950s.

As late as the early 1970s, farm animals still grazed at large in Staten Island. These ducks, goat, and horse are grazing on yet-to-be-developed land near the Staten Island Mall on Richmond Avenue in New Springville.
As late as the early 1980s, farm animals from Artie Klages’ Richmond Hill Animal Farm at 147 Richmond Hill Road still grazed at large in Staten Island. These animals are grazing on yet-to-be-developed land on Merry Mount Street between Nome Avenue and Richmond Hill Road in New Springville.

If you enjoyed this golf story, you may enjoy reading about Lillian Russell, the feline mascot of the Dyker Meadow Golf Course in Brooklyn.

According to legend, this story all began when a customer brought three pet turtles into the Toddy Inn on 5th Avenue in Bay Ridge in 1933. Soon after the customer placed all three on the bar to show off their “racing skills,” one of the turtles made his escape. Either he was a very fast turtle, or everyone had slow reflexes from drinking too many hot toddies.

One year later, the runaway turtle everyone called Floyd showed up at the bar on his own. He would continue to appear at the Bay Ridge bar for about a week every year in May or June for more than 20 years.

Floyd the turtle, Toddy Inn, 1954
Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
This actual photo of Floyd the turtle at the Toddy Inn in Bay Ridge was taken in 1954, about 20 years after the turtle began making his annual pilgrimage to the bar. Brooklyn Public Library Collections

According to Jerry Villafrete, a bartender who worked at the Toddy Inn in the 1950s, Floyd’s routine was pretty much the same every year. He’d walk in through the back door and take up residence under the same particular booth in the tavern. For about a week, he’d take naps under the booth and short walks around the bar. None of the patrons ever fed him, although once and awhile he’d get a bite or two of lettuce provided by the management.

7913 Fifth Avenue (between 79th and 80th Street) 
Bay Ridge
The three-story brick structure at 7913 Fifth Avenue (between 79th and 80th Street) where Floyd made his temporary home was built in 1920. It was originally occupied by a real estate firm, J.A. Fausner & Co., before becoming the Toddy Inn tavern. The building is currently the home of Fillmore Real Estate.

Floyd Introduces His Girlfriend

In 1954, after 20 years of bachelorhood, Floyd surprised everybody by showing up with another turtle. Everyone assumed it was his girlfriend, so they named her Gertrude.

As owner Anthony Baranella told the press, “Floyd decided it was a good place to bring a gal of good family for a drink or two.” He said he liked having the pair around because they drummed up business and didn’t drink too much of the profits.

According to Mrs. Bessie Hecht, a scientific assistant in the reptile department of the Museum of Natural History, Floyd and Gertrude probably lived in the Bay Ridge area – maybe in the backyard of the Toddy Inn – and hibernated in the ground from the fall until spring. In 1953, she told the Brooklyn Daily Eagle that the turtles probably lived in the backyard all summer, feeding on grubs and worms.

1929 Bay Ridge
Floyd didn’t have much of a backyard at 7913 5th Avenue (lower left of this 1929 map), but perhaps he ambled on over to the greenhouses at Denyse’s Nursery just up the block.

What Floyd and Gertrude probably did not realize was that the yard in which they made their home once belonged to one of the most prominent families of New Utrecht. This land was also once part of the British base of operations for the Battle of Long Island during the Revolutionary War.

What we now call Bay Ridge and Bensonhurst was once part of the town of New Utrecht, one of six towns established by the Dutch and later combined by the British to form Kings County.

The area was first settled in 1652, when Cornelis Van Werckhoven of Utrecht, Holland, began building a colony on land known as the Nyack or Najeck tract. His agent Augustus Heermans had purchased this land for him from the Canarsie and Nyack Indians for 6 shirts, 2 pairs of shoes, 6 coats, 6 pairs of stockings, 6 axes, 6 kettles, 6 knives, 2 scissors, and 6 combs (the items and numbers vary in published accounts).

Cornelis Van Werckhoven
Cornelis Van Werckhoven didn’t live long enough to carry out his plans to create a colony on land for which he procured the Indian deed on November 22, 1652. He died in Amsterdam at age 40 in 1655.

Following Van Werckhoven’s death in 1655, Jacques Cortelyou, the private tutor for Cornelis’ two children (Peter and Cornelis Jansen), received permission to sell lots and create a town on the Nyack tract. Nineteen families received grants of 50 acres each, and by 1660, they had built 11 houses.

Most of these homes were near the broad main street of the village, which is now 84th Street between 16th and 18th Avenues. The settlers named the town New Utrecht in honor of Van Werckhoven’s place of birth.

Many prominent Dutch families, including the Barkaloos, Van Brunts, Bennetts, Denyses, Bergens, Van Pelt’s, and Bogarts established their farms and homesteads in New Utrecht. Long into the 19th century, as this 1873 map shows, these families held onto their farms and shunned development.

But that all changed in the late 1880s, when the Union Elevated and Brooklyn City railroad lines were extended through Brooklyn, and the outsiders started to move in.

Bennett Homestead Shore Road

The Bennetts were one of the most prominent Dutch families with extensive realty holdings in New Utrecht. Charles C. Bennett was born in the old family home (pictured here) at what is now 96th Street and Shore Road on September 15, 1851. The family also had a manor home on Shore Road and 87th, a farm near today’s Shore Road and 79th Street, and many other real estate holdings.

In 1889, James Townsend bought the Adolphus Bennett farm lying along 79th street between Third and Sixth Avenues. That same year, Hoik D. Campbell purchased the John J. Bennett estate, which was bounded by 5th Avenue, 83rd Street, 4th Avenue and Denyses Lane.

According to news reports, Campbell’s intention was to establish a land company and build cottages on the property. However, he reportedly didn’t begin selling off these lots and some of his other holdings until the early 1900s. In 1920, the block of buildings that included the Toddy Inn on 5th Avenue was constructed on the old Bennett estate.

A Hudson Valley Aside

J.D. Willis Stock Farm, Middletown
H.D. Campbell purchased the J.D. Willis Stock Farm in Middletown, New York, in 1892.

My readers in the Hudson Valley may be interested to know that H.D. Campbell was the owner of the old Willis Stock Farm just south of Middletown, New York. Campbell purchased the farm in 1892, and he and his family established their summer home on the 112-acre property, which featured a 14-room farmhouse, a carriage house, a large farm barn, colt, mare, and stud barns, and granaries. The farm also had a half-mile track.

Apparently Campbell didn’t know a lot about horses, but he thought the horses and the track would make a good investment. In 1897, the Orange County Agricultural Society purchased his track and the three surrounding fields. Today we know this property as the Orange County Fairgrounds, the Orange County Fair Speedway, and the Middletown High School.

Orange County Fair Speedway and Fairgrounds.
Orange County Fair Speedway and Fairgrounds, Google Earth.

Whence came the elephant? Who knows
The world is dark,
“Dropped from the moon,” some folks suppose
You laugh, but there’s a spark
Of evidence that partly shows
He came not from the Ark;
For, on his flank – the mystery grows—
Is branded “Luna Park.”
— J.A. Tralee, Ireland (published in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, June 6, 1904)

The Elephant swims to Staten Island
Diane Matyas, artists
Did Alice the elephant really swim to Staten Island, or was she part of a giant publicity stunt? Illustration by Diane Matyas.

On Friday morning, June 2, 1904, the proprietors of Coney Island’s Luna Park reported that three of their elephants were missing. The two male elephants were found shortly thereafter, but the female elephant, Alice — or Fanny (reports vary) — was nowhere to be found. Alice had gone AWOL.

The proprietors, Frederick Thompson and Elmer “Skip” Dundy, posted a notice in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle offering $100 for any information or for the return of the female elephant. An alarm was also sent out to local police stations when the park employees discovered that she was lost.

According to published reports, the three elephants were part of the park’s Great Durbar of India attraction, in which hundreds of natives of India and Sri Lanka dressed in colorful costumes and rode through the streets on elephants, horses, and camels. Due to bad weather, the show had been cancelled the night before, and the handlers were careless in securing the three elephants.

The great durbar of India in the streets of the Delhi-Luna Park, New York. (1904)
Luna Park at Coney Island was a precursor to Epcot at Disney World, with numerous multicultural attractions including the streets of Cairo, an Eskimo village, an island in the Philippines, a Japanese garden, and the canals of Venice. The Great Durbar of India was part of the Streets of Delhi attraction. New York Public Library Digital Collections

Sometime during the night, the elephants escaped through the rear door of the barn that led to Neptune Avenue and ambled down to Coney Island Creek. Once in the Lower Bay, the two males turned left and swam toward Long Island (Queens); Alice headed for Staten Island. The males didn’t get very far and were captured early Friday morning. Alice kept going.

If we are to believe the fishermen who watched Alice swim ashore at New Dorp Beach in Staten Island, then Alice swam about 5 miles across the Narrows from Coney Island.

New Dorp Beach Map, 1907
In the early 1900s, New Dorp Beach on Staten Island was a mecca for fishermen and other pleasure seekers who visited the island to enjoy the sun and surf. The beach had several picnic areas and hotels, including Ed Hett’s New Dorp Beach Hotel.

One of the fishermen, Frank Krissler, of 124 Ogden Avenue, Jersey City, reported that he and his friend had been fishing from their small rowboat about a mile off shore when they heard an unearthly sound and their boat began to roll. It was quite foggy, so they couldn’t see well, but they could tell something very large was headed their way. Soon a huge form appeared off the portside – it appeared to have a giant funnel from which water was spraying up into the air.

“Rhinoceros!” Krissler screamed. “Whale!” his friend cried. The men quickly turned the boat around and started to row as fast as possible toward shore. The elephant followed in hot pursuit.

When they arrived back on shore near Ed Hett’s New Dorp Beach Hotel, the elephant lumbered out of the water and followed them up the beach.

New Dorp Beach Hotel
The New Dorp Beach Hotel property was owned by Edward Hett, inventor of the multicolor printing press. The original three-story hotel, built around 1897, was destroyed in a fire in 1902. Hett built a new concrete hotel, which was sold to A. Munger in 1913, just two years before Hett’s death. The property also included a steamboat pier, an acre of dancing pavilions, field dining rooms, bowling alleys, and another large frame hotel on Cedar Grove Avenue. NYPL Collections.

Soon two more fishermen and Patrolman O’Rourke from the New Dorp police force arrived, and the men used ropes to create a lasso. They swung the lasso around the elephant’s tusks and led her toward the carriage shed behind Adolf Eberle’s Speedway Inn in Grant City, where Patrolman O’Rourke knew he could keep her until the police decided what to do with the elephant.

During the long walk to Grant City, Alice reportedly stopped in front of a grocery store to eat a wagon-load of vegetables and take a few gulps from a horse trough. When the group reached the Speedway Inn at Southfield Boulevard and Franklin Avenue (today’s Hyland Boulevard and Bedford Avenue), Alice reportedly pulled up a couple of trees in the yard and yanked a few planks from the porch before entering the carriage shed.

Speedway Inn Staten Island
The Speedway Inn (top right in this 1907 map) was a hangout for those who enjoyed the new sport of automobile racing. Today, the site is occupied by a gas station and an oil change business.

Later that day, more police arrived and Alice was taken to the horse stables of the mounted police on New Dorp Lane and 8th Street. There, she was “charged” with vagrancy.

Hundreds of people gathered in front of the green-terraced station to see the very large prisoner. It was the biggest catch the police of New Dorp had ever made, and as one officer said, “Press agent or no press agent, we got him, and we are going to keep him till a bondsman shows up.”

The officer was making reference to the popular belief that Alice was part of a publicity stunt orchestrated by an over-imaginative press agent for Luna Park. (In fact, two years later, a reporter for Success Magazine claimed that Fred Thompson hired a furniture van to cart the elephant through Brooklyn, across the Brooklyn Bridge, through downtown Manhattan, and then on the ferry to Staten Island. Once near shore, Alice was released into the water.)

A Brief History of the New Dorp Mounted Police

1590 Richmond Terrace, Staten Island
In 1887, the Richmond County Police Squad headquarters (Station 1) was on Bay Street in Edgewater. The city also leased a building at 1590 Richmond Terrace (Station 2, later the 65th Precinct), shown here in this Google street view. This 1871 building was also used for the YMCA from 1871 to 1886, and today is home to Lennie Construction Corp.

When Alice made her grand appearance on Staten Island, the borough’s mounted police force was fairly young – seven years young, to be exact. It’s no wonder Alice the elephant was the biggest and most exciting event the police had ever experienced.

In 1867, legislation placed Staten Island within the jurisdiction of the Metropolitan Police Department of New York City. Three years later, another law was enacted that made Staten Island a separate police district under the control of three commissioners. William C. Denyse of Middletown, Abram C. Wood of Castleton, and Garret P. Wright of Northfield were appointed to the Board of Police Commissioners, with Wood elected president.

Staten Island Police
In 1867, a small force of men was enlisted and detailed for patrolling Staten Island (Borough of Richmond).

The incorporated villages put in their requests for police officers as follows: Port Richmond, 7; New Brighton, 7; Edgewater, 14; Tottenville, 2. A police station was established opposite Veterans Park in Port Richmond, in one of the many buildings on Staten Island owned by former Chief Engineer John Decker of the old volunteer fire department of New York City.

In 1883, the department attempted to establish a mounted unit. Much to the public’s dismay, the men were not accustomed to the saddle and the experiment failed. Two years later, however, the Richmond County Board of Supervisors approved the Board of Police Commissioners’ request for an appropriation of $6,000 to supply horses for a mounted squad to patrol the country districts.

80th Precinct Mounted Police
The mounted police squad of Staten Island was originally housed in a farmhouse at Rockland Avenue and Forest Hill Road in a sparsely settled portion of New Springville. It later became a substation of the 80th Precinct and moved to New Dorp Lane and 8th Street.

The squad had 10 men, including patrolmen John Moore and George Wilson and eight other men who had just been appointed to the force. The men were fitted in a cavalry uniform and drilled by Sergeant Thomas Higgins of the Sixth United States Calvary. Twelve horses were purchased and named after the governors of New York: Morton, Flower, Hill, Cleveland, Cornell, Robinson, Tilden, Dix, Hoffman, Fenton, Seymour, and Morgan.

Alice Goes Home

Many hours after Alice arrived at the police stables, Pete Barlow (aka the Coney Island Elephant Man) and two men from the India attraction at Luna Park showed up and convinced the police that Alice was one of six elephants from Luna Park. They paid a large fine and lead the elephant away down the Boulevard toward the St. George Ferry landing.

After walking about six miles, the group met up with a large horse-drawn wagon that had been summoned from Sheepshead Bay in Brooklyn. Using hay and apples to lure her, Barlow led Alice into the wagon, which then proceeded to the ferry. Upon arrival in Manhattan, the wagon took Alice down South Street and to the Brooklyn-bound ferry. Once in Brooklyn, the group made of the rest of trip by foot and hoof back to Coney Island.

Gunda Indian elephant
Alice was brought to the Zoological Park in the Bronx (Bronx Zoo) in 1908 to be a mate for Gunda, shown here on the left. Years later, Gunda went mad from his captivity, tried to kill his keeper, Walter Thuman, and had to be executed.

With Alice safely back at Luna Park, Frenk Kissler the fisherman told the press he was going to collect the $100 reward that was due him.

Incidentally, four years later Alice made the news again, this time when she went on a rampage at the Bronx Park Zoo and “locked” herself in the Reptile House. She had been given to the zoo in 1908 to be a mate for Gunda, the zoo’s first Indian elephant, and it was hoped that some baby elephants would keep her busy and distract her from trying to escape.

 

“We had tried policemen on bicycles, motorcycles and even automobiles to run down plunderers, but had poor results until we got the dogs.”—Long Island Railroad Police Superintendent Robert E. Kirkham

America’s Safe-Blowing Belt

The dog detectives of the LIRR police force

The dog detectives of the LIRR police force pose for the Brooklyn Daily Eagle in July 1911.

In the 1800s and early 1900s, the wide open territory along the tracks of the Long Island Railroad was like something out of the Wild West. Train station and post office burglaries were a fairly common occurrence, as were gun fights and murders. Bandits would also try to rob people on the trains by laying rail ties or boulders across the tracks in hopes of causing a train wreck.

In their efforts to capture these “yeggmen,” several railroad patrolmen were killed and others were severely injured. Some good dog detectives were desperately needed.

Sheba's Bob LIRR Dog

Sheba’s Bob was a large bloodhound with heavy ears that nearly reached the ground and a nose that always worked overtime. When standing on his hind legs, he was as tall as the average man. He and the other dog detectives were handled by Lieutenant Ferdinand Miller of the LIRR police force.

For 200 years after the arrival of the Dutch settlers in Manhattan, most of Long Island remained unchartered woodlands, although large farms did begin springing up in the 18th and 19th centuries.

It wasn’t until the railroad started laying tracks in the late 1830s that small villages like Hicksville, Farmingdale, and Deer Park began to form (the names of these villages say it all). A typical village in those days consisted of a train station, post office, general store, a few dozen residences, and perhaps a hotel.

In 1908, a record number of post office burglaries were reported in villages along the tracks from Queens to Nassau County. For some reason, the Mineola post office was a favorite, and it became known as “America’s safe-blowing belt.” Numerous private residences were also burglarized during this time.

At each midnight break-in, the modus operandi was to blow the safes open using nitro-glycerin. The yeggmen would then escape by automobiles or teams of fast horses.

Although the burglars often used bags of chicken feed to muffle the sounds, the noise they created was still quite loud. However, villagers became so accustomed to the explosions that they’d simply ignore it and say, “It’s only the post office being blown up again.”

LIRR Police Force

The LIRR had its own police department as far back as 1868. When Robert E. Kirkham, chief clerk in the office the president of Long Island City, was appointed to Superintendent in 1905, the plan was to create a force of 200 men to patrol the terminal stations and freight yards, and to give special attention to those stations that operated by electricity. The special force merged with the Metro-North Railroad Police to form the Metropolitan Transportation Authority Police (MTA Police) in 1998.

In addition to Secret Service agents attached to the U.S. Post Office Department, the men of the Long Island Railroad police force would often assist the local authorities in trying to apprehend the thieves. The LIRR equipped its police force with motorcycles and employed several expert bicyclists to help run the bandits down, but the crimes continued. It was time to call in the dog detectives.

Who Let the Dogs Out?

Recalling the good results that German, French, and Belgian municipalities had with highly trained police dogs — and maybe he had even heard about the hero police dogs in Parkville, Brooklyn — Superintendent Robert E. Kirkham of the LIRR police force purchased two English bloodhounds from Vermont named Bob and Nellie. Nellie soon had six pups (one died), and the whole pack was trained for service.

Within just a few years, the dog detectives trailed and brought to justice more than 100 criminals.

Valley Stream freight house

The Valley Stream freight house (top left) as it appeared in 1932.

On November 30, 1910, several grocery items and other goods were stolen from the LIRR freight house at Valley Stream. Robert Smith, the station attendant, discovered the break-in at 7:30 a.m. and notified gateman Robert Earle. The two men called for assistance from Sheba’s Bob, the ace dog detective of the LIRR detective bureau.

When Sheba’s Bob and his brother Jim arrived on the scene, Lt. Miller led them to the freight house, which had been pried open with a crowbar. The dogs picked up the burglar’s scent and tore off in a flash. Bob made for the underbrush at the rear of the station and started circling a pile of sand. Scattered about the spot were one or two parcels that apparently had been of no value to the thief.

Bob and Jim LIRR dog detectives

The old blacksmith shop where Bob and Jim tracked down the burglar. The illustration shows how Bob ran from the shed and up the stairs on the side of the building.

The dogs then moved back to the tracks and started to run with their noses to the ground. They dragged Lieutenant Miller down the tracks, jumped over a barbed wire fence, and ran up an embankment toward the pumping station at Watt’s Pond. The dogs then headed into the woods, dragging their handler along.

An hour after taking to the trail, the dog detectives exited the woods near Merrick Road. About 100 yards away was Joseph Berkley’s barn, which contained a blacksmith shop and living quarters that he rented. There was a tool shed in back, where a man was skinning a muskrat. Bob was the first to jump on the man, Frederick Reising.

Gristmill at Watt's Pond

The bloodhounds’ noses led them to the Clear Stream Pumping Station at Watt’s Pond, which was erected in 1881 on land previously occupied by the Wright family grist mill (shown here). Today this land is the Edward W. Cahill Memorial Park (formerly Mill Pond Park). Brooklyn Museum/Brooklyn Public Library, Brooklyn Collection

“Take him away!” the man yelled. Lt. Miller called his dogs back and shackled the thief. Next, Bob darted for the barn and ran up the stairs on the side of the building. He ran through the kitchen and down the hall, and started to howl at a trunk in the bedroom.

Inside the trunk was everything that had been stolen from the freight house. With some help from Bob, Lt. Miller also found a crowbar hidden behind some boxes.

Following the arrest of Frederick Reising, police found other items in the barn where he was hiding, including about 40 bicycles (one of them rigged as a getaway bike), silver, and glassware. In a private residence nearby, detectives also found several gold and silver watches, other articles of jewelry, and dynamite.

LIRR Central Avenue

In 1911, when Bob and Jim were hot on the trail of the freight house burglar, most of the land between Watts Pond and Merrick Road was woodlands and farms. The area was still fairly rustic in 1922, when this photo from the railroad tracks looking west down Central Avenue in Valley Stream was taken.

 

It was believed that Reising was involved in a gang of burglars that had been operating along the South Side rail tracks, stealing from freight houses and stores.

The Good Deeds of the Dog Detectives

In February 1911, several attempts were made to wreck the Wading River express train, also known as the “Gaynor Special.” New York’s “Tammany Hall” Mayor William Jay Gaynor – the only mayor to be hit by a bullet during an assassination attempt — always used this train to travel to his country home in St. James on Saturdays.

Wading River Station LIRR

The 1895 Wading River station was demolished in 1938. The Wading River extension was abandoned March 20, 1939.

 

 

The bloodhounds were brought in to track the criminal’s trail, which led to the arrest of a man in Long Island City.

Another celebrated case occurred in August 1911, when the three-year-old daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Fritz Webber of Northport went missing. The Webbers had left the girl unattended at Fort Salonga Beach for a half hour as they took a walk in the sand. When they got back, she was gone (big surprise).

Neighbors formed a search party, but after 27 hours the LIRR police were finally asked to bring their bloodhounds to the beach. The dogs sniffed her shoes and stockings, and four hours later they tracked the child to a spot five miles away. The little girl was fast asleep on the grass, only four feet from the edge of a deep creek.

As for the man who dared try to steal from the railroad, one month after his arrest, Frederick Reising was convicted of burglary and sentenced to prison. It took the jury only five minutes to find him guilty. It was his word against Bob’s word, and Reising had no chance against the ace dog detective of the Long Island Railroad.

Sheba's Bob and Jim, the ace dog detectives of the LIRR.

Sheba’s Bob and Jim, the ace dog detectives of the LIRR.

Charging bulls of Carmansville
The flimsy fencing around the cattle pens at the Manhattanville train station could not hold back a determined bull.

The Running of the Bulls is a practice that involves voluntarily running in front of a small group of cattle that has been let loose on a fenced-off part of the town’s streets. The most famous running of the bulls takes place during the eight-day festival of Sanfermines in Pamplona, Spain. For residents of New York City’s Manhattanville, Washington Heights, and Carmansville, running of the bulls was almost a weekly occurrence in the 1800s.

But for these poor folks, participation was not voluntary.

Where in the World Is Carmansville?

Named after its founder, Richard Francis Carman, Carmansville was a small 19th-century village that encompassed the land between Broadway and the Hudson River from 145th to 158th streets. Today we call this area Hamilton Heights.

Carmansville, New York
This 1875 map shows the little hamlet of Carmansville from about 145th to 158th Street.

Born in New York in 1801, Richard Carman was a wealthy contractor who learned carpentry and construction while making packing boxes for merchants. Following the Great Fire of December 1835, in which about 600 buildings were destroyed in lower Manhattan, he won numerous building contracts and began using his new wealth to deal in speculative real estate investing.

On October 1, 1841, Carman purchased a portion of the former John Watkins – John Maunsell farm from the New York Bowery Fire Insurance Company at a foreclosure auction. He absorbed this land, which encompassed from 152nd to 158th Street, into Carmansville, a small working-class village he was already developing between 152nd Street and 155th Street. A year later, while serving as a New York City Alderman, he sold 24 acres of this land to Trinity Church for a cemetery (the only active burial ground in Manhattan today).

Minnie's Land, Audubon House
On the same day Carman purchased his acreage, John James Audubon, the renowned ornithologist and painter, bought an adjacent 14 acres of woodlands for his own estate (located at present-day 156th Street and Riverside Drive). He called it Minnie’s Land in honor of his wife, Lucy Bakewell (Minnie was a Scottish endearment for “mother”). The property was originally a working farm with gardens, orchards, and livestock. It featured a stream just about where 157th Street is now, rocky outcroppings, and dense woodlands of oak, elm, and hemlocks. After Audubon’s death in 1851, Lucy and her sons, Victor and John, built and rented about 10 houses on their property. Residents called the neighborhood Audubon Park.

Over the years, the small village of Carmansville built up around the train station for the Hudson River Railway at the foot of 152nd Street. By the 1860s, Carmansville had become a destination for picnickers and other pleasure seekers who would spend the afternoon fishing or catching crabs.

Carmansville 1885
Tracks for the Hudson River Railway at Carmansville in 1885. Carmansville was the first northbound stop on the railway. Museum of the City of New York Collections.

In addition to the railroad station, cemetery, and several churches, the village had a police station (the former 32nd Precinct Mounted Police station house at Amsterdam Avenue and 152nd Street), blacksmith, butcher, and grocer, as well as some modest frame houses and estates. In the 1880s, other businesses sprang up in and around Carmansville, including Major George W. Sauer’s Atalanta Casino and roller skating rink on 8th Avenue and 155th Street.

The Charging of the Bulls

Back to the bulls.

In the 1800s, cattle stampedes were almost a weekly occurrence, especially on Sundays. The steer would scour the boulevards, avenues, and streets, and then charge through the crowds of people going to and returning from church.

Carmansville 1885
A typical street in Carmansville, looking west toward the Hudson River. If you look closely, you can see two goats. Museum of the City of New York Collections

On a typical Sunday, two or more steers would appear on the street, break into a trot, and then full-out charge into the crowd, scattering people in all directions. Neatly dressed women would throw aside their Sabbath decorum and make for the nearest cover at a racing pace. Shawls, hats, and other articles would go flying, no doubt contributing to the animals’ agitation.

The gentlemen, forgetting all gallantry, would perform surprising stunts of agility to avoid harm’s way. The cattle would eventually head into the woods, and few people were actually harmed.

The cattle often escaped after existing the cattle trains on the Hudson River Railroad.
The cattle often escaped after existing the cattle trains on the Hudson River Railroad.

The cattle were escapees from the cattle trains on the Hudson River Railroad. These trains often had as many as 100 cars, each containing 16 heads of cattle.

When the trains arrived at the Manhattanville passenger and freight station at 130th Street, the cows were driven into insecure pens by careless drivers. The fencing around the enclosure was composed of decayed boards, which allowed ambitious bulls to escape.

The Church of the Intercession

One of the main churches in Carmansville was the Church of the Intercession, an Episcopal church that held its first services in the parlor of New York merchant John Rowland Morewood’s home in 1846. In 1847, Richard Carman offered the church its first home in a small frame building opposite Trinity Cemetery at the corner of West 154th Street and Tenth Avenue (Amsterdam Avenue).

Church of the Intercession
This small frame building (center) on West 154th Street served as Carmansville’s first Episcopal church from 1847 to 1872. The building to the right is still standing. Museum of the City of New York Collections.
Church of the Intercession
Carmansville
In 1874, when this story takes place, some of the residents of Carmansville would have attended this new Church of the Intercession, which was constructed in 1872 at the corner of 158th Street and Grand Boulevard (now Broadway). In 1906, this building was turned over to the Trinity Church Corporation for use as a Trinity chapel.
429 West 154th Street.
Today you can still see the outline of the old frame church (brown lines) on the side of 429 West 154th St.

Bulls Gone Wild at Audubon Park

The bulls did not limit their stampedes to the main avenues of Carmansville. One time, a herd of about 30 cattle dashed up the train tracks from Manhattanville, turned to the right, and galloped through Audubon Park, destroying everything in their path. One bull broke from the pack and ran toward the river. He jumped into a rowboat moored at the pier, fell into the river, and started swimming across the Hudson River.

The bull reached about halfway across the river but turned around and was eventually lassoed by one of the drovers. Another bull swam across the river to the Jersey shore. It wasn’t until the following evening that the entire herd was captured by police and a group of citizens.

Audubon Park, 1891
The bulls charged through Audubon Park and destroyed the property of several homes, like this one photographed in 1891.

Following a rash of stampedes, Cornelius “Commodore” Vanderbilt told the public that the stampedes would come to end when the new cattle yards of his New York Central and Hudson River Railroad were completed. The cattle yards, which occupied 60th to 65th Street between 11th Avenue to the North River, opened in January 1875.

Broadway north from 157th St., New York.
In this 1910 photograph of Broadway and 157th Street, we can see the Church of the Intercession (minus the steeple) and some horses. With the new stock yards, residents no longer had to worry about charging bulls. New York Public Library Digital Collections

The Passing of Richard and Mary

“Mr. Carman dispensed his wealth liberally, and his ear was ever open to the appeals of the needy and friendless.”–The New York Times, July 14, 1867

Two years after Richard Carman served as a pall-bearer for his famous Washington Heights neighbor, Madame Eliza Jumel, his wife, Mary Baker Carman, passed away. One month later, in July 1867, Richard died and was laid to rest in Trinity Church Cemetery. His holdings were divided into 257 lots that were subsequently subdivided into smaller land holdings, leading to the development of the residential neighborhood we know today.

Audubon House
The Audubon house, pictured here in 1917, was torn down in 1931. All efforts to preserve the home failed due to the Great Depression. Today the site is occupied by the 1932 apartment building at 765 Riverside Drive.

If you enjoyed this tale, you may be interested in reading about the Staten Island cows that went wild at the Pavonia Ferry Terminal.