Dewey, police cat mascot of Liberty Avenue Police Precinct, Brooklyn, 1909
This is really Dewey. He consented to pose for the Brooklyn Times Union photographer while his brother Dick was away on mouse patrol.

Part I: The Police Cats of the 153rd Police Precinct

When Dewey, a large tabby cat, entered the magnificent, castle-like police station at 484 Liberty Avenue in 1902, he was the terror of the precinct. Biting and scratching were his favorite pastimes.

But over the next seven years, Dewey (no doubt named for Commodore George Dewey, the hero of the Spanish-American War) grew into one of the kindest and mildest of cats. He also became one of the best ratters in the New York Police Department.

The credit for the remarkable turnaround goes to Mrs. Henrietta Millwood, the veteran “white-haired, gentle-faced” police matron for what was then known as the 153rd Police Precinct of East New York, Brooklyn.

“I remember well the night that Dewey first came to the station house,” Mrs. Millwood told a Brooklyn Times Union reporter in August 1909. “He came in for shelter out of a storm and a more bedraggled little animal it would be hard to find. He was starving.”

Mrs. Millwood said that after feeding the cat, he refused to leave. No surprise there.

She then trained the cat by bopping him gently on the nose whenever he did wrong. “An animal could be made to comprehend things at once by using this method,” she told the reporter, explaining that the nose was the “seat of understanding.”

484 Liberty Avenue
Dewey and Dick lived in this beautiful castle-like police station at 484 Liberty Avenue, built in 1892. They spent much of their time in the stables to the right of the main building.

Dewey shared the Romanesque Revival style police station with Dick, a large black and white cat who showed up a few days after Dewey arrived (the cat obviously had a nose for food and luxurious shelter). Like Dewey, Dick was a great mouser who took his job very seriously—even passing up a photo shoot and publicity for a more important ratting expedition.

Around the neighborhood, Dewey and Dick were known as the 153rd Precinct mascots. Every man, woman, and child in the district knew them and fed them treats.  

Many working mothers would leave babies and toddlers on the police station steps every morning on their way to their jobs in Brownsville. (“Little moms or dads,” in other words, children who had been placed in charge of their younger siblings, would also drop off the little ones at the station.) Moms and older siblings knew the youngsters would be taken in and cared for by Mrs. Millwood and the other matron, Mrs. Cox, so they abused the system and used the police station as a day care center.

Dewey and Dick were no doubt a favorite attraction for these abandoned children who spent the entire day at the police station. The kids also adored Mrs. Millwood, who kept a room filled with toys, including rag dolls and ninepins, for the girls and boys to play with. (Mrs. Millwood told the Times Union reporter that the bad adult mothers should be disciplined: she suggested fining them one dollar each time they dropped off their children. Perhaps she should have bopped them on the nose each time!)

Although Mrs. Millwood was their disciplinarian, the cats were under the charge of Henry Miller, who was in command of the horse stables and patrol wagon, and John Ott, who was in charge of the precinct horses. The men saw that the cats were fed and well taken of; they reportedly did such a good job at taking care of Dewey and Dick that the cats were “the sleekest looking in East New York.”

The Cats’ Favorite Equine Pals

Dewey and Dick police cats of 484 Liberty Street, Brooklyn Times Union, August 1909

In 1909, there were 14 horses in the stables attached to the Liberty Avenue police station, including Nobel and Latson, the patrol wagon horses. According to Mrs. Millwood, Dewey and Dick could recognize each horse. They also had a few favorites.

One of the cats’ favorite horses at the precinct was Black Mike, a handsome black bay horse who belonged to Officer Martin Volkommer, a former Rough Rider who fought with Teddy Roosevelt in the Battle at San Juan Hill. Dewey and Dick reportedly loved to sleep in the same stall with him.

Black Mike was a gentle horse with felines and humans alike. According to Mrs. Millwood, whenever Officer Volkommer was ready to mount the horse, Black Mike would “bend down” by stretching out his two fore legs. “It’s the cutest thing I have ever seen,” she said.

Another of the cats’ favorite equine pals was a 22-year-old black horse also named Mike. This horse now belonged to Captain Christian Reimels, but he first joined the old New Lots Police Department under Captain Hugh F. Gorman, who was the first captain to assume command of the new Liberty Avenue police station in 1892.

Mike was known to be a devil under Captain Gorman’s command, but by 1909 he was reportedly “as gentle as a kitten.” Maybe Dewey and Dick had something to do with this, or maybe Mrs. Millwood gave him a few taps on the nose.

On the night before the Times Union reporter visited the station, Mike had taken a bad turn. His injuries were not immediately apparent to the humans, but somehow the cats knew that Mike was not feeling his best. They made this known to Daniel Miller.

According to the story, Dewey and Dick wakened Daniel from his sleep by “filling the air with their cries.” Then they began trotting backwards and forwards toward Mike’s stall, mewing loudly and showing obvious signs of distress.

Daniel was just about to throw a shoe at the cats to shoo them away, but their odd behavior caught his attention. On investigating the situation, Miller discovered that the old horse had been injured and required medical attention.

I trust that Dewey, Dick, and their horse friends lived happily ever after in their fairytale police station. In Part II of this story, I’ll tell you about Sergeant Nick, the Newfoundland mascot of the New Lots Police who preceded the mascot cats.

The Police Station Castle at 484 Liberty Avenue

Completed in 1892, the historical Liberty Avenue police station designed by George Ingram was built of Anderson gray brick and Lake Superior sandstone. Other features included two polished Quincy columns, main entrance doors of quartered oak, and elaborate interior finishes of quartered oak and black walnut.

The building stood on a site purchased by the city on the southwest corner of Liberty and Miller Avenues. This was about two blocks away from the old station house of the original New Lots Police Department at 109 Bradford Street.

Illustration of new police station at 484 Liberty Avenue, Brooklyn

The main building could accommodate about 80 patrolmen, and featured a large muster room, captain’s quarters with a bedroom and bathroom, a large sitting room, four dormitories, and rooms on the second and third floors for the patrolmen and sergeants. There was also a matron’s office in a hall leading to the stables, plus two cells for female prisoners and eight cells for men.

Hugh F. Gorman was 42 years old when he took over the 17th Precinct on Liberty Avenue in 1892.
Hugh F. Gorman was 42 years old and already gray-haired when he took over the 17th Precinct on Liberty Avenue in 1892.

The connected stables were to the right of the main building. They were designed to accommodate the patrol wagon and a dozen or so horses of the new mounted squad. The corner turret also served as a watchtower, where an officer could sit and look out for fires in the district (in later years, veteran officers would tease the rookies and tell them they would get stuck with the fire watch detail if they got out of line).

When newly appointed Captain Hugh Frank Gorman and the men of what was then called the 17th Police Precinct moved into their new home at 6 p.m. on June 2, 1892, the force was the smallest in the city with only 38 men. Now that they had a new station house, the force expanded to about 60 patrolmen, including the mounted unit with 14 horses and at least two police cats.

During this time period, the district was the largest in the city, covering nine square miles stretching from Queens County to the town of Flatbush, and from Jamaica Bay to the county line. The district included East New York, Brownsville, and Cypress Hills.

Although it was thickly populated in Brownsville, the majority of the district was rural, with farms and numerous detached homes that were magnets to burglars.

The Final Years of the Liberty Avenue Police Station

By 1909, when this story of Dewey and Dick took place, Captain Gorman had already been dead for 11 years, having passed away at the young age of 48 on March 1, 1898, from cirrhosis of the liver. Sadly, he died only one year after his retirement.

East New York had also far outgrown its police facilities. The Liberty Avenue building had a maximum capacity of 113 police officers, which was not enough to protect the 90,000 people living among the 139 miles of streets in the district.

The Chat, July 1909

Some of the 80 street posts were now more than two miles long, and with sick time and vacations, there were oftentimes as few as 40 men to cover all those posts. The people of Cypress Hills, in the northern portion of the large district, were demanding more coverage. They’d have to wait a long time.

With the advent of the motorized patrol car, the horse stables were replaced by a three-story garage in the 1920s, when this was now the 44th precinct. Around 1930, the precinct was renamed the 75th Police Precinct.

The NYPD stopped using the building in 1973–almost 65 years after the residents began demanding a new station! By this time, the police were in desperate of need of not only more space, but also many more electrical outlets and bathrooms.

A modern new headquarters for the 75th precinct was finally established at 1000 Sutton Avenue.

In September 1975, the city announced that it would be selling the Liberty Avenue building—along with 400 other buildings and lots—at a large public auction. The starting bid was set at $15,000; the city would only accept bids from a community group that would use the police station for nonprofit purposes.

The winning bidder was the Peoples Baptist First Church, which occupied the building into the early 1980s.

484 Liberty Avenue, 2022
Google Street Views, 2022

Eventually, the building was vacated and left to deteriorate. Windows were knocked out and the doors were barricaded with wood that rotted over time.

Then in 2016 it was purchased by David Krinsky of Triple Five Holdings LLC. Numerous permits were issued in the summer of 2021, so hopefully the building will one day be restored to its original glory.

In Part II of this story, I’ll share the interesting history of the New Lots Police Department and the old station houses that led up to the castle at 484 Liberty Avenue.

484 Liberty Avenue, 2022
Google Street Views, 2022.
The 75th Police Precinct at 1000 Sutton Avenue.
The 75th Police Precinct at 1000 Sutton Avenue.
Peggy with the newest Brooklyn fire dogs. New York Daily News, July 13, 1936
Peggy with the newest Brooklyn fire dogs. New York Daily News, July 13, 1936

For almost four months in 1936, Bess was the most famous mother of all the Brooklyn fire dogs in the Fire Department of New York. But then her own daughter took over the Top Mom title of the FDNY.

Bess was the prize-winning mascot of Engine Company 257, stationed at Rockaway Parkway and Farragut Road in the Canarsie neighborhood of Brooklyn. In February 1936, she presented her firefighter friends at the circa 1903 firehouse with eight full-blooded Dalmatian puppies.

Not to be outdone by her mother, Peggy, one of Bess’s daughters from an earlier litter, duplicated her mother’s maternal feat. In June 1936, the blue-ribbon-winning Dalmatian also gave birth to eight puppies at her firehouse—Hook and Ladder 123, stationed at 423-25 Ralph Avenue and Bergen Street in Weeksville.

The father of Peggy’s pooches was Pal, another prize-winning Dalmatian attached to Engine Company 271 in the eastern section of Ridgewood.

Peggy strikes another pose with her baby Brooklyn fire dogs for the Brooklyn Daily Eagle.
Peggy strikes another pose with her baby Brooklyn fire dogs for the Brooklyn Daily Eagle.

Although the press did not give any additional coverage to Peggy and Bess beyond their maternal actions, the Brooklyn Daily Eagle wrote a short tribute to Pal following his death in 1939. Lieutenant Joseph Oesau of Hook and Ladder 170 also sung Pal’s praises in an article published in the Daily News in 1949.

According to Brooklyn Daily Eagle, Pal came to the firehouse at 392 Himrod Street sometime around 1931. Although he sustained a broken leg while still a pup, he was treated at the Ellin Prince Speyer Hospital. The leg completely mended, allowing him to chase the fire engines as they responded to calls.

Engine Company 271 at 392 Himrod Street. NYC Department of Records, 1940
Pal was attached to the firehouse of Engine Company 271 at 392 Himrod Street. NYC Department of Records, 1940

Pal knew all the sounds of the fire engine and the alarm bells, and could distinguish between the engine company and the ladder company—Hook and Ladder 124—which was stationed next door to the engine company. According to Lt. Oesau, he would never go out if only the truck responded to a call.

Pal was also “the daddy of most of the fire dogs,” Lt. Oeasau said. He knew every brewery in the neighborhood, and he had a favorite sweetheart across the street in a peddler’s cart yard. When the yard moved to Bushwick Avenue and Siegel Street about two miles away, Pal would frequently visit his girlfriend at her new home.

During his final year of life, Pal started staying behind when the engines rolled. In September 1939, the men took him to the animal hospital, where he was diagnosed with uremic poisoning.

He died in the hospital on October 3 and was buried in a small private pet cemetery at Waldheim, which was James Speyer’s beautiful country estate in Scarborough, New York. Tammany, the New York City Hall mascot cat, was also buried at this cemetery a few months earlier, in April 1939.

It was reported that a heavy gloom hung over the firehouse following Pal’s passing. Unfortunately, none of the men that he worked most closely with were able to attend the funeral, but their thoughts were with him as he was “laid away among the tall pines.” All of the men agreed that Pal could never be replaced.

Waldheim, the 130-acre Hudson Valley estate of James Speyer
Pal was buried in an aristocratic animal cemetery at Waldheim, the majestic 130-acre Hudson Valley estate of James Speyer, husband of the late Ellin Prince Speyer. The estate, which fronted the Scarborough-Briarcliff Road and the Albany Post Road, was sold in 1947 and subdivided into about 200 building lots for modest-priced single-family homes.

Did You Know?

According to the old records on file with the New York City Fire Museum, Brooklyn’s volunteer fire corps, which provided fire protection for what was then the City of Brooklyn, were among the first to employ Dalmatians. The Brooklyn fire dogs were intended to be pals for the horses, often sleeping in the stalls and sharing mealtime with their equine friends. The horses in turn took good care of the dogs en route to fires—although there were occasional accidents, some fatal, the horses almost instinctively avoided hitting the dogs racing alongside them.

Fire dogs, whether they were Dalmatians or mutts, acted as sheep dogs for the horses. At the sound of the alarm, the dog would get in front of the horses and bark at the team until they were in their harnesses and hooked up to the rig. The dog would then run out the door, look down the street to make sure the coast was clear, and return to the team to bark a few more orders.

When the men were all turned out in their gear and aboard the apparatus, the horses would start out the door with the fire dog running proudly out in front or nipping at the horses to encourage them on–just like a sheep dog would do.

Perhaps Pal is one of these Brooklyn fire dogs, pictured here in 1935 as they march along Eastern Parkway during a parade sponsored by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals,
Perhaps Pal is one of these Brooklyn fire dogs, pictured here in 1935 as they march along Eastern Parkway during a parade sponsored by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals,

One Dalmatian attached to Engine Company 22, at Quincy Street near Ralph Avenue, reportedly used to bark at anyone and anything to clear the street when the company was preparing to roll. The dog took this job very seriously, if not a bit too seriously: one time he bit a letter carrier who was walking past the firehouse just as the engines were about to respond. He was not about to let the carrier get in the way of the horse-drawn fire engine.

Massive, mechanical wheels of the the new gas-powered engines and trucks did not treat the fire dogs as kindly as did the intelligent fire horses. Once the horses were gone, the men felt their fire dogs were safer staying behind in the fire house.

By the late 1940s, the Dalmatian was slowly disappearing from the FDNY. According to fire officials, there were less than 100 (101?) Dalmatians attached to the many city firehouses in 1949. Most of these dogs served as mascots as they no longer had a real job to do (except, perhaps, have puppies!).

Champion Dalmatian fire dogs, New York
Peggy, Bess, and Pal may have won their ribbons at the Westminster Kennel Club Annual Dog Show at Madison Square Garden, as shown in this photo of Dalmatian fire dogs with their handlers in 1941. Photo by Bert Morgan
Bessie Dalmatian puppies 1936
Another look at Bessie’s puppies. The press couldn’t get enough of the cuteness!

One more look at Peggy's adorable Brooklyn fire dogs.
One more look at Peggy’s adorable Brooklyn fire dogs.

  

 

Alexander S. Thweatt ticket agent for Southern Railway, battles a black cat, 1900.
Alexander S. Thweatt battles a black cat, 1900.

Once upon a time, a renowned employee for the Southern Railway lost a battle to a cat that had broken into his home on West 44th Street. Before I tell you about this battle, allow me to introduce you to Alexander Stephens Thweatt, a Southern gentleman who dedicated his life to the railway.

Alexander Thweatt was born in Milledgeville, Georgia, in 1862. He was the son of Peterson Thweatt, Confederate Comptroller General for Georgia during the Civil War.

Alex started working at the age of 12 as a clerk in the ticket office of the Richmond and Danville Railroad in Atlanta. By the age of 20, he was a district passenger agent for this railway.

In 1885, Alex married Nannie Neill Hays of Louisville. Nannie’s father was Major Thomas H. Hays, another Confederate veteran and a former State Senator of Kentucky. Her grandfather was John L. Helm, governor of Kentucky in 1850 and 1867.

The couple moved to New York City around 1894, when Alex was promoted to Eastern passenger agent for the newly reorganized Southern Railway. At this time, the railway, which offered passenger service to the Carolinas, Georgia, Florida, Mexico, and California, had offices in the National Shoe and Leather Bank Building at 271 Broadway.

1893 National Shoe and Leather Bank Building was home to the Southern Railway
The Southern Railway paid $7,000 a year in rent for its offices in the circa 1893 National Shoe and Leather Bank Building at 271 Broadway, on the southwest corner of Chambers Street. This building was replaced with a 28-story skyscraper around 1910.
Southern Railway vintage ad

Alexander actively marketed the Southern Railway, placing national ads promoting events such as Mardi Gras and Atlanta conventions, which would attract numerous rail passengers from New York, Baltimore, and other eastern cities on the rail line. He also promoted himself by sharing work stories or little snippets of conversations that he overheard during his day, like this snipped below.

The Great Possum Escape at the Southern Railway Office

By December 1904, when this next story took place, the Southern Railway had a second New York City office at 1185 Broadway, on the northwest corner of West 28th Street, in a building attached to the Fifth Avenue Theatre.

According to the New York World, Alexander “gave an impromptu exhibition of how to handle a possum” on New Year’s Eve that year. “His appearance in the role of an animal trainer was in the railway office at 28th Street and Broadway, in the presence of an awe-stricken crowd of clerks, policemen, citizens, and Sam, the porter.”

Apparently, Alexander had received a Christmas present of four large persimmon-fed possums from friends in North Carolina. The possums reached his office late, were fed, and left in their crate for the night. When Alexander came downtown the next day, he found the sidewalk in front of his office blocked by young boys with their noses glued to the big plate glass windows.

“What’s the trouble, Sam?” he asked the porter, who was running excitedly from one door to another.

“Good Lawdy, don’t you see. Eem blamed possums has done got loose and I can’t ketch ‘em.”

Alexander laughed at Sam. “What, you can’t catch a possum?” Sam explained that he was born and raised in New York and had never ever seen a possum before let alone tried to catch one.

Seeing that something had to be done as the crowd grew larger, Alexander threw off his overcoat and went inside. He gently kicked the first possum, which then played dead. Then he reached down and put his forefinger under its tail.

Perhaps these were the large windows at 1815 Broadway where the young boys had pressed their noses to watch the possums running about the offices of the Southern Railway. The Fifth Avenue Theatre (former Apollo Hall), which had a main entrance on West 28th Street, is just to the left of this circa 1900 photo.

The possum curled its tail curled around his finger, allowing Alex to lift it back into the crate. He did the same with the other three possums.

“You see, I was raised in the South,” he told the crowd. “I’ve been possum hunting many times. When a boy I learned that all you had to do was to touch a possum’s tail. The possum will play ‘dead’ immediately and you can do anything you want to with him.”

Alex said he would send three of the possums to Southern friends living in New York City. The other he reportedly had killed and later served with candied yams—yuck (possum was a very popular Southern dish at this time).

Now, Alexander may have been a good possum wrangler, but when it came to other animals, he was apparently a bit challenged.

The Cat Burglar of West 44th Street

In 1927, all the buildings in this circa 1925 photo were torn down to make room for the 30-story Hotel Lincoln. New York Public Library Digital Collections
In 1900, Alexander Thweatt was living in a four-story apartment building at 257 West 44th Street, near 8th Avenue, pictured here in 1925 (far right, only partially visible). In 1927, all the buildings in this photo were torn down to make way for the 30-story Hotel Lincoln. New York Public Library Digital Collections

One night in March 1900, after retiring to the bedroom in his ground-floor apartment at 257 West 44th Street, he was awakened by his wife Nannie. She whispered to him, “There must be burglars in the house. I’ve heard them.”

Alex got his revolver and crept out of bed. He was groping around in the darkness when he heard a loud yell. Somehow, he managed to jump and land on top of his dining room table (I’d be very impressed if he did indeed pull off this cat-like maneuver, especially since the press once called him “a somewhat corpulent gentleman”).

He turned on a light and searched the room, but there was no burglar in sight. However, the front window was partly open.

While continuing to search the room, Alex spied a large black cat trying to get out the window. He dropped his revolver, picked up a broom, and chased the midnight cat burglar.

During the battle, the poor man sprained his right ankle, broke two window panes, smashed all the crockery on a sideboard, and upset a parlor lamp. Luckily, the lamp—if powered by kerosene–was not lit at the time.

The cat escaped without harm. Maybe, just perhaps, this cat was an ancestor of Abe Lincoln, the brave kitten who took up residence at the Hotel Lincoln, the large hotel that was constructed in 1927 on the site where Alexander and his family lived in 1900.

The Final Days of Alexander S. Thweatt and the Southern Railway

During the 1900s, the Southern Railway moved its New York City offices several times. In 1906, they moved to the ground floor of the Gilsey House at 1200 Broadway, on the northeast corner of East 29th. (Maybe the owners of the Fifth Avenue Theatre didn’t want to take any more chances with escaped possums?)

The Gilsey House at 1200 Broadway (extant), on the northeast corner of East 29th Street, celebrated its grand opening on April 15, 1871. The Southern Railway opened its midtown office here in 1906.
The Gilsey House at 1200 Broadway (extant), on the northeast corner of East 29th Street, celebrated its grand opening on April 15, 1871. The Southern Railway opened its midtown office here in July 1906.

By 1914, the offices of the Southern Railway had taken over the retail space once occupied by upscale jewelry store Howard & Co. at 264 Fifth Avenue, a former mansion that had been the home of New York City merchant A.T. Stewart. 

264 Fifth Avenue, pictured here in 1940. New York City Department of Records.
Around 1913-14, the Southern Railway opened a new office at 264 Fifth Avenue, pictured here in 1940. New York City Department of Records.

Alexander died in his home at 600 West 150th Street following a brief illness on December 4, 1917. He was survived by his wife, four married daughters, a son, and four grandchildren. He was buried in Kensico Cemetery in Valhalla, New York.

Following Alexander’s death, there were no more newspaper ads promoting the railway offices at 264 Fifth Avenue. Perhaps Southern Railway moved its offices in 1917, but the ads stopped, never to run again, when the old ticket agent died.

From the mid-1920s to 1930, the offices for Southern Railway were located at 152 West 42nd Street. A man by the whimsical name of R.H. De Butts was the Eastern passenger agent.

In 1971, Amtrak took over most intercity rail service. Southern Railway initially opted out of turning over its passenger routes to the new organization; however, it shared with Amtrak operation of its flagship train, the New Orleans-New York Southern Crescent. Under a longstanding haulage agreement, Amtrak carried the flagship train to all stops north of Washington.

By the late 1970s, growing revenue losses and expenses forced Southern to exit the passenger rail business. It handed full control of its passenger routes to Amtrak in 1979.

Today, the Crescent runs a daily train from New York City to New Orleans. I’m a big fan of trains, so this trip is on my bucket list. I’ll raise a toast for Alexander while we’re rolling through Georgia.

One of the last ads for Southern Railway during Alex S. Thweatt's tenure as Eastern passenger ticket agent.
One of the last ads for Southern Railway during Alex S. Thweatt’s tenure as Eastern passenger ticket agent.

Over the River and Through the Woods to Gabe Case’s Place on Jerome Avenue

Sleigh-riding in Central Park, 1898. New York Public Library Digital Collections
Sleigh-riding in Central Park, 1898. New York Public Library Digital Collections

As I sit here writing this story on the third day of January 2022, we still have not had any snow in the Hudson Valley. Well, we had a dusting of snow on Christmas Eve, but that was certainly not enough snow to go sleigh riding on a plastic toboggan let alone a horse-drawn sleigh.

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the first snowfall of the season in New York City was marked by a race in horse-drawn sleighs. Trotters of wealthy railroad men, bankers, merchants, and stablemen would race through Central Park, down Seventh Avenue, over the Central Bridge (Macombs Dam Bridge), and along Central Avenue (Jerome Avenue) to Johnny D. Barry’s, Gabe Case’s, or Judge Smith’s roadhouses in what was then the West Morrisania neighborhood of the Bronx.

The prize to the horseman who arrived first on runners without scraping the macadam was a magnum of wine or champagne, plus plenty of bragging rights. It was expected that the winner would share the magnum’s contents with his fellow horsemen at the roadhouse.

The winner of the first snowfall race would win a magnum of wine or champagne at one of the several roadhouses along Jerome Avenue, just across from Macombs Dam Bridge.
The winner of the first snowfall race would win a magnum of wine or champagne at one of the several roadhouses along Jerome Avenue, just across from Macombs Dam Bridge.
1898 poem about the sleigh-riding contest.
1898 poem about the sleigh-riding contest.

This era was the heyday of road racing in Harlem and the Bronx, when high-society men like William K. Vanderbilt, Jay Gould, William Rockefeller, William C. Whitney, Leonard Jerome, and Robert Bonner would put on a spectacular show by racing their trotters on snowy days and on every spring and summer afternoon.

Thousands of spectators would gather on the grassy banks of the streets to watch and cheer on their favorite trotters as they headed down Seventh Avenue in Harlem and Jerome Avenue in the Bronx.

No doubt the men had great fun racing down the street, but their real goal was Fleetwood Park racetrack, where gentlemen could trot their horses against time on a one-mile oval track.

Fleetwood Park Racetrack
From about 1871 to 1898, Fleetwood Park was a popular racetrack located in what was then the town of Morrisania (then Westchester County), between present-day Webster and Sheridan Avenues and 165th and 167th Streets. According to the New York City Landmarks Preservation, the last race took place there on October 8, 1897. The park was officially closed on January 1, 1898, and development along Clay Avenue began in 1901 with the construction of 28 two-family homes.

One of the favorite features of these daily equine displays were the social gatherings and suppers at the various roadhouses scattered along Jerome Avenue, on the east side of Macombs Dam Bridge.

Johnny D. Barry’s, aka The Romantic House, was the first roadhouse as one crossed over the old wooden bridge (see illustration below). Next there was Gabe Case’s place along Cromwell’s Creek, where one could get the finest fish supper. Beyond Gabe’s, about a mile farther up Jerome Avenue, was Judge Smith’s roadhouse at East 167th Street, which was just a few blocks west of Fleetwood Park.

Macombs Dam Bridge 
Jerome Avenue
In 1813, Robert Macomb constructed a dam across the Harlem River for his mill on Devoe’s Point. Although the state required Macomb to operate a lock to keep navigation open, only small boats could pass through the small lock at his toll bridge. The Central Bridge opened in 1861 and was replaced by the current Macombs Dam Bridge in 1895. Johnny Barry’s old roadhouse was torn down a year later.

One of the most famous customers of these popular roadhouses was William K. Vanderbilt, who ruled the horse-racing world with his trotters Aldine, Early Rose, Maud S, Lysander, and Leander. Vanderbilt, whose father (Cornelius Vanderbilt) was also a frequent customer, never missed a stopover at the three main roadhouses on a winter sleigh ride or while on his way to Fleetwood Park. At Gabe Case’s, he would rest for a while on the piazza or join his fellow horsemen in the conservatory, aka lookout tower.

William Vanderbilt with Maud S. and Aldine at Fleetwood Park in 1883.
William Vanderbilt with Maud S. and Aldine at Fleetwood Park in 1883.

Although Vanderbilt was the king of the racetrack, when it came to sleigh riding, no one could beat stableman and Harlem River Speedway superintendent John J. Quinn. Every year for almost 25 years in a row, Quinn won the coveted magnum of wine at Gabe Case’s roadhouse with his many trotters, including Wildwood, Lutegard, and Dexter K.

Quinn owned the Eureka boarding stables in Harlem on 124th Street just off Seventh Avenue. As the stableman once told the press, “three snowflakes meant sleighing.” He had a standing order with the stable foreman to have the fastest horse in the stable ready at the stable door at the first sign of snowfall.

John Quinn on the Harlem River Speedway. The Illustrated American, 1898.
John Quinn on the Harlem River Speedway with Dexter K and another horse. The Illustrated American, 1898.

Sometimes Quinn would cheat by jumping the gun too fast and dragging his sled’s runners on the bare macadam. Gabe Case would have to send him home without the magnum; a new race would take place the day after the first snowfall was adequate for proper sleigh riding along Jerome Avenue.

John Quinn with his horse Dexter K. in 1898
John Quinn with his horse Dexter K. in front of his Harlem stables in 1898. Maybe it’s just the poor quality of this news photo, but it looks like grass or macadam is still showing on the ground.

A Brief History of Gabe Case and His Jerome Avenue Roadhouse

Although all of the roadhouse owners reportedly awarded a magnum of wine or champagne to the fastest sleigh riders, Gabe Case’s place had a great reputation for several reasons.

Gabe Case's roadhouse, Jerome Avenue
Gabe Case’s hotel and roadhouse on Jerome Avenue. Surrounded by woodlands and close to Fleetwood Park and Cromwell’s Creek, it was a popular rendezvous spot for horsemen and fishermen. The roadhouse featured Swiss gingerbread work and a tower with a brass weather vane in the shape of a horse.

Gabe Case was born on Clinton Street in the Lower East Side of Manhattan in 1830. He was married for a short time, but his wife reportedly died at a young age, sometime prior to 1880. The couple never had children.

Gabe’s first business venture was a hotel called The Fulton, which was at 18th Street and Fourth Avenue. When the Fleetwood Park racetrack opened in 1871, he took a job managing the clubhouse there. Like the other men who raced at Fleetwood, Gabe was also a horseman who enjoyed racing his chestnut trotters Tom and Jerry at the track or taking longer rides with his reliable distance horse, Decoration.

Sometime prior to 1875, a hotelier named William H. Florence built a roadhouse on Jerome Avenue, just north of present-day 162nd Street. The roadhouse property backed onto Cromwell’s Creek, named for the descendants of John Cromwell, a nephew of Lord Protector Oliver Cromwell. In the late 1700s, James Cromwell used the waters of the creek to propel his mill.

1879 map of Morrisania and Jerome Avenue
The site of Gabe Case’s hotel at the intersection of what was then Jerome Avenue and Marchwood Place is noted at the top center of this 1879 map of Morrisania.

William Florence had owned a large hotel on 154th Street and Eighth Avenue, just west of Macomb’s Dam bridge in Manhattan. He lost the property in 1873 after allowing ex-Assemblyman Tomas C. Fields to use the hotel as collateral in lieu of a $5000 bond. Fields skipped town, and Florence’s hotel was seized.

Florence’s new building had a commanding view of Jerome Avenue and the bridge, and was surrounded by a beautiful forest along Cromwell’s Creek, which was a popular place for swimming, fishing for striped bass, and ice skating.

Gabe Case took over the lease from William Florence and named it Gabe Case’s Hotel.

Gabe Case's Hotel and the Hoboken Turtle Club on Jerome Avenue
Gabe Case’s Hotel and the Hoboken Turtle Club are noted on the middle left of this 1885 map.
Gabe Case
Gabe Case in perhaps his slimmer years.

In addition to the renowned sleigh-riding contests, Gabe Case hosted many events at his roadhouse, including a popular quail-eating contest and a hog-guessing contest (guess how many pounds it weighs). Gabe Case’s was also headquarters for the Hoboken Turtle Club, whose members would host annual clambakes and turtle soup dinners at the hotel. News reporters liked to point out that Gabe’s large size (at one point he reportedly weighed 285 pounds) was probably a good advertisement for his food business.

In addition to his horses, which lived in stables attached to the roadhouse, Gabe Case kept a green parrot, several canaries, and a few bull terriers at the roadhouse. During the winter months, Gabe reportedly loved to sit in the hall close to his beloved talking parrot as he greeted all the sleigh riders.

The Final Days of Gabe Case and His Roadhouse

In 1886, a museum man named George H. Huber purchased Gabe Case’s place for $25,000. The deal allowed Gabe to continue running the roadhoase–where he also lived with his nephew, Charlie Russell–until his lease expired in 1890.

On March 30, 1890, just two days before Gabe was scheduled to take over the lease at the old Mount Saint Vincent House in Central Park (which later became McGown’s Pass Tavern under Case’s proprietorship), his horse Decoration died of complications from colic. The horse, whom Gabe had purchased from Robert Bonner for $215 in 1879, was buried near the old Fleetwood Park; a monument was erected there in his honor.

Gabe postponed his move to Mount Saint Vincent, possibly due in part to his horse’s passing.

George Huber ran a museum on East 14th Street, where Harry Houdini reportedly performed when he was 17 and several wild wolves appeared in a performance called “Little Red Riding Hood and her pack of tamed wolves.”

Much has been written about Gabe Case’s years at McGown’s Pass Tavern, so I’m skipping that part for another story at a later time. So we’ll fast-forward to July 1901, when Huber expanded Gabe’s old Jerome Avenue roadhouse to accommodate vaudeville performances.

By this time, the interest in racing trotters along Jerome Avenue was waning, especially since Fleetwood Park had shut down a few years earlier. Gabe was still awarding the magnum of wine to sleigh riders, but now the horsemen were racing only as far as McGown’s Pass Tavern in Central Park.

On June 1, 1904, Gabe Case died in his residence at the tavern at the age of 74. A large funeral procession led from his tavern to Calvary Methodist Episcopal Church at Seventh Avenue and 129th Street–this was the first ever funeral procession through Central Park. Case was buried at Woodlawn Cemetery.

McGown's Pass Tavern
Gabe Case died at his McGown’s Pass Tavern on June 1, 1904. (Notice the horses near the entranceway.)

Eight years after Gabe Case’s death, on June 12, 1912, a fire caused considerable damage to a wing that had been added to his old roadhouse on Jerome Avenue. This building was occupied by a fight club where boxers could train and compete. The main building, including the lookout tower, was not damaged in the fire.

Gabe Case old roadhouse, Jerome Avenue

Three years later, Huber decided to sell all of his vast holdings on Jerome Avenue, which included 56 lots between 162nd and 170th Streets. Apparently the old roadhouse had been repaired by this time; New York State Senator George Thompson reportedly purchased it for his wife as a Christmas gift.

I’m not sure what Mrs. Thompson did with her gift, but I do know that by 1924, the old Jerome Avenue roadhouse was on its way out.

George Huber's Jerome Avenue holdings included the old roadhouse (building with tower at left) and all these other buildings pictured in 1910.
George Huber’s Jerome Avenue holdings included Gabe Case’s old roadhouse (building with tower at left) and all these other buildings pictured in 1910.

In 1924, the City of New York acquired land for a park on seven blocks to the east and west of Cromwell Avenue.

Then in 1929, the Bronx County Park Association extended Macombs Dam Park above 162nd Street along Jerome Avenue, atop the old Cromwell’s Creek. They named the park in honor of John Mullaly, a news editor and secretary of the Parks Commission.

The southwestern end of John Mullaly Park was constructed over the site of Gabe Case's hotel and roadhouse on Jerome Avenue and 162nd Street.
The southwestern end of John Mullaly Park was constructed over the site of Gabe Case’s hotel and roadhouse on Jerome Avenue and 162nd Street.

Mullaly was a strong advocate of setting aside parkland in the Bronx. His efforts culminated in the 1884 New Parks Act and the city’s 1888-90 purchase of lands for Van Cortlandt, Claremont, Crotona, Bronx, St. Mary’s, and Pelham Bay Parks, as well as the Mosholu, Pelham, and Crotona Parkways.

John Mullaly park opened on August 24, 1932.

Groundbreaking for the new Yankee Stadium–which replaced the old 1923 stadium just south of East 161st Street–began in August 2006. The first ground was broken on a running track at Macombs Dam Park and at the southern end of John Mullaly Park.  

Today, if you’re sitting way out in left field at the stadium, you can think about Gabe Case’s roadhouse and the famous horsemen who raced their trotters to that very location on summer afternoons or whenever it snowed in Old New York.

All that equine history took place right under your seat.

This doctored Google Earth map shows the location of the old Yankee Stadium (which is now Elson Gene Howard Field) and the new stadium. The red X marks the approximate spot of Gabe Case’s roadhouse inn on Jerome Avenue at 162nd Street.

Vintage pug
This is not Puck, but this 19th-century dog looks like he’s enjoying the good life.

The following story took place on East 21st Street, which was once the southern boundary of the eighteenth-century Rose Hill Farm.

As this festive holiday tale was reported in The Sun on December 29, 1893, “There was much ado on Christmas Eve in the home of Mrs. Brewer, at 43 East 21st Street, and no trouble was spared in decking the towering Christmas tree, to the illumination of which on Christmas night Mrs. Brewer had invited her friends.”

Apparently, the invitations did not mention in whose honor the preparations were made for the grand party that was to take place in the four-story boarding house. So naturally, there was “great astonishment” when word leaked out that the honoree was a dog. An aristocratic dog, “well fed and plump,” to be more exact.

When the female guests arrived at the party and had assembled themselves around the tree, Puck walked into the room on his hind legs beside his mistress. He had a napkin tied around his neck.

Next to the tree was a child-size chair. Puck jumped onto the chair and watched with interest as Mrs. Anna Brewer lit the candles on the tree. When all the candles were lit, the little pug began to bark while the guests clapped their hands.

As the New York Evening World noted, “He barked his delight…and worked his Schneiderian membrane so hard sniffing at the sweets that he almost had convulsions of his uvular process.”

43 East 21st Street, 1940 tax photo
Puck and Anna Brewer lived at 43 East 21st Street, pictured here in 1940, many years after the boarding house had been converted to a shop and loft building. NYC Department of Records

“He wants some candy,” Mrs. Brewer said as she began pulling at some candies that she had hung on the tree. Puck caught the candies in his mouth, jumped off the chair, walked on his hind legs to a table, and helped himself to all the other delicacies that his mistress had set out for him. According to the Evening World, “he fairly wallowed in caramels and marshmallows” while the guests nearly smothered the dog with kisses.

When Puck tired of feasting on the treats, Mrs. Brewer removed his napkin. At last, the human guests were allowed to partake in the food and festivities.

A few days after the party, the Evening World wrote a snarky review of the affair:

“Has your pug dog seen Santa Claus this year? Has the dear little smudge-nosed darling had its Christmas gift? No? Ah! What a pity! What a shame! Don’t let the poor, precious pet see these remarks, then, and don’t tell it anything about that pampered pug Puck on East Twenty-first Street, who has had a Christmas tree all to himself…

There are dogs and dogs just as there are babies and babies, and we are sure there are some dogs in this town just as there are some babies in this town that did not have Christmas trees of their own. How sorry we all ought to be for those Christmas-treeless dogs who have never met Santa Claus or wore a napkin around their necks at a Yule banquet of bonbons or even felt the ultimate differentiated thrill of joy which a flea on the end of Puck’s tail must have been shaken with Christmas Eve.”

Now, perhaps Mrs. Brewer was simply rewarding her pug for stopping a burglar who had broken into her home eight months earlier.

According to the Albany Morning Express, a four-foot-tall man named George Oppinger was found in her house on the night of April 4,1893. Authorities had been on the alert for the man, after receiving a cable from Scotland Yard that he was sailing from England to New York to escape charges. He was arrested and sentenced to six years in state prison.

The article doesn’t mention anything about Puck, but perhaps the small dog alerted Mrs. Brewer to the small criminal.

Tootsie the Pug Responds

Vintage woman with pug
Pugs were quite popular with high-society ladies in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and, like the pugs of Alice Austen, were often photographed.

Apparently, the Evening World’s sarcasm was lost on at least one pug-adoring woman.

On January 13, 1894, the Evening World published a letter from Ida L. Follett of Dayton, Ohio, that that she had addressed to Mrs. Brewer. In the letter, Mrs. Follett wrote:

“I didn’t think any one was as foolish(?) over a dog as I am, for I also had a tree for my Tootsie. The article pleased me so.” Mrs. Follett went on to write that her pug was six years old, and that she had bottle-fed Tootsie since she was a baby (as the mother dog had such a large litter and could not feed them all).

Like Puck, Tootsie was a spoiled dog. For Christmas that year, she received an ottoman, a combination bank, a session with a professional photographer, some toys, and some pennies for the bank.

Tootsie at least shared some of her wealth: she reportedly saved her pennies each year until February 4, when Mrs. Follett would buy flowers for the grave of her sister, who had loved the little dog just as much as she did. (Maybe Mrs. Brewer got some noble ideas after reading this letter.)

Love Lane and the Rose Hill Farm

If you enjoy New York City history, the following is a detailed history of Love Lane and Rose Hill Farm, in what is now the Rose Hill neighborhood, just north of Gramercy Park and west of Kips Bay.

Prior to 1827, a private lane called the Abingdon Road, aka Love Lane, ran on or near the line of 21st Street. On the east side, Love Lane extended to today’s Park Avenue South, then angled northeast to Third Avenue and East 23rd Street. On the west side, it extended to the Fitzroy Road (Eighth Avenue).

Lover's Lane carriage ride

According to Charles Hemstreet, author of Nooks and Corners of Old New York (1899), the lane originally took its name from the oldest daughter of Admiral Sir Peter Warren, who married the Earl of Abingdon (the lane was the northern limit of Warren’s 300-acre estate). The name Love Lane was established in the late 18th century.

Hemstreet theorized that Love Lane became a nickname for the Abingdon Road because it was a favorite road for dating couples to take long carriage rides out to the country (which is what midtown Manhattan was then called). “The generally accepted idea is that being a quiet and little traveled spot, it was looked upon as a lane where happy couples might drive, far from the city, and amid green fields and stately trees confide the story of their loves.”

The old lovers’ lane began to disappear in 1827, when 21st Street was ordered opened. In 1899, six years after this story of Puck the pug took place, there were still five old houses on West 21st Street that had once existed on Love Lane: 25, 27, 51, 53, and 55 (the latter three were thought to have been a single large house serving as a tavern).

Evening Post, January 30, 1827
Evening Post, January 30, 1827

Another small private road–Rose Hill Street–which ran on a northwest angle from Love Lane to the Eastern Post Road, traversed the land on which Puck and Anna Brewer’s apartment building at 43 East 21st Street was constructed in the mid-1800s. This street was named for the Rose Hill Farm, a large farm and country estate owned by the Honorable John Watts.

Randel Farm Map, Rose Hill Farm
Love Lane (red arrow) and Rose Hill Farm are shown on the Randel Farm Maps, 1818-1820. The blue arrows mark the location of Rose Hill Street and 43 East 21st Street.

John Watts, the son of Robert and Mary Watts, was born in New York on April 5, 1715. Following his education abroad, he returned to New York to become one of the most eminent lawyers in the country.

Among his many accomplishments, Watts was a member of the New York State Assembly, he founded the New York Society Library, and he was the first president of the New York City Hospital (now the Weill Cornell Medical Center), which he also helped in organizing.

Anne de Lancey of Rose Hill
Anne De Lancey,1723-1776

On November 13, 1747, five years after his marriage to Anne de Lancey, Watts obtained about 130 acres of land bounded by the Bloomingdale Road (Broadway), Eastern Post Road, and Love Lane. The farm was called the Rose Hill Farm, named for the Watts family’s ancestral estate in Scotland.

John Watts purchased the property—originally part of the Stuyvessant farm—from his brother-in-law, Lieutenant-Governor James de Lancey. He built a mansion on a hill just north and west of East 24th Street and Second Avenue, where he and Anne lived with their many children during summer months (Rose Hill was their country retreat; the Watts family also had a “city” home at 3 Broadway, facing Bowling Green.)

A long roadway lined with elm trees and flanked by fields and woodland extended southeasterly toward the Rose Hill mansion from the Eastern Post Road and present-day East 28th Street.

Rose Hill was the favorite resort of the aristocracy during this time, as John and Anne were well connected with New York City’s leading families and held an important place in society.

John Watts, 1715-1789
Owner of Rose Hill Farm
John Watts, 1715-1789

The Final Years of Rose Hill Farm

Alas, Watts’ loyalty to the King of England forced him and Anne to leave New York and flee to Wales in 1776 near the start of the Revolutionary War. Anne died a few months later, and John never returned to America.

The family’s large estate, including Rose Hill and the house on Broadway, was confiscated by the Committee of Forfeiture. After the war ended, his oldest sons, Robert and John, unsuccessfully petitioned to reclaim their properties. They were eventually allowed to buy back the properties in 1784, which included vast holdings in ships, mills, factories, banks, and investment houses.

In 1786, John Watts Jr. sold a large chunk of the property to Nicholas Cruger, then one of the most prominent merchants in New York City (and a mentor of a young Alexander Hamilton). Watts retained the southwestern portion of the farm as his country estate.

The main house at Rose Hill had burned down in 1779 during the British occupation. Cruger rebuilt the estate house and all the farm buildings destroyed during the Revolution. Then in February 1790, he advertised that Rose Hill Farm was for sale.

Nicolas Cruger
Nicholas Cruger, 1743-1800

The lengthy ad that appeared in the New-York Daily Advertiser gives a full picture of Rose HIll at this point in time:

A Farm for Sale. That very elegant and pleasantly situated FARM, Rose Hill, lying on the banks of and adjoining the east river, three miles from this city, containing 92 acres of valuable land, in the highest cultivation, chiefly in mowing ground, the whole well inclosed, principally with stone fences of a superior construction, bounding on the public road 1175 feet; a pleasant avenue through the orchard in front of the house, also a good road that comes out into the bowery land, next to the honorable James Duane’s; on the premises there is an elegant dwelling house of 50 by 37 feet; a commodious farm house of 50 by 20 feet; an excellent barn with carriage houses and stable, 20 by 40 feet, a hovel with a large hay loft over the whole 96 by 15 feet, corn crib, fowl house &c. all the buildings are new and well finished in the most commodious manner, a fine bearing orchard of 260 engrafted apple trees of the most approved sorts, and a great variety of other kinds of the best English and American fruits, a thriving nursery of upwards of 9000 young fruit trees, numbers of which are inoculated and engrafted; an elegant garden, with the finest collection of flowers, flowering shrubs, strawberry, asparagus beds, etc. ten acres in wheat and rye.

Cruger did not end up selling the land; he instead leased the property to General Horatio Gates–ironically, a Revolutionary War hero–in September 1790. General Gates established his country seat at Rose Hill, which, in addition to the large, two-story frame and brick estate house, included barns, outhouses, and fruit and vegetable gardens. He and his wife, Mary, kept only the area around the manor house for themselves, renting out most of the surrounding farmland.

Rose Hill Farm Map, 1827
The site of the Rose Hill mansion, farm house, and barn is noted on this 1827 Rose Hill Farm map (area in yellow), when the property was owned by Betram Peter Cruger. The site of the future Bull’s Head Market is also noted on 24th Street, just west of Third Avenue.

General and Mrs. Gates received many prominent visitors at Rose Hill, including Thomas Paine and General Tadeusz Kosciuszko, a. Polish military engineer who served in the Revolution and designed American forts such as West Point.

The General passed away in April 1806, but Mary Gates continued to live at Rose Hill until her death in 1810. The home was then leased to Gamaliel Smith, a merchant who established his summer retreat there from 1811 to 1815.

Eliza Leaycraft Smith, the young daughter of Gamaliel Smith, described Rose Hills as follows:

“…a beautiful place on the east river, about 24th St. Two blocks below Bellevue hospital, which was commenced while we lived there. This place was only three miles from the Battery, and you would have supposed you were at least thirty miles from the city. The house was large and handsome, standing on a hill with a gentle slope to the farm house, [a] nice large building, with several barns; beyond ­the lawn was very expansive with numbers of splendid trees...A carriage road of white pebbles surrounded the house, & a beautiful grove of cedars led to the garden which was filled with every variety of the best and choicest fruit.

In 1812, the Rose Hill property was surveyed and partitioned into 1,010 individual lots to be divided among the heirs of Nicholas Cruger, which included his second wife, Ann Rogers, and his eight children.

Following this event, one of the first major developments occurred in 1826 when an association of New York butchers purchased lots along 24th Street, just west of Third Avenue, for the establishment of a cattle market and tavern known as the Bull’s Head Tavern (the tavern was destroyed by fire in 1841). 

1830 ad for Rose Hill Mansion
Evening World, June 1830. The “Alms House” referred to in this ad was the Alms House Hospital, predecessor to Bellevue Hospital.

Most of the area around Rose Hill Farm, however, retained much of its rural, undeveloped character during the 1820s and 1830s, as noted in the 1827 map above.

By 1830, the old Rose Hill mansion had been converted to a boarding house, as advertised in the Evening World in the summer of 1830. The home was still standing until at least 1835 (the “large and substantial” mansion was advertised for sale in April 1835), and the barn reportedly remained on 24th Street for a bit longer.

As for the four-story boarding house at 43 East 21st Street where Puck and Mrs. Brewer lived, that building was demolished and replaced with a four-story brick parking garage (41-47 East 21st Street) in 1955. The building is currently being converted to a self-storage facility due to an uptick demand for self-storage as a result of Covid-19.

41-47 East 21st Street, Rose Hill District
41-47 East 21st Street

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